My Food Days in Venice, from Breakfast to Dinner
I've waited a long before writing about where to eat in Venice.
What can I add to the thousands of reviews, videos, guides and books already out there?
Not much, so I'll make it short.
I will give you only 3 names for every meal, perfect for a weekend.
Breakfast
Pasticceria Dal Mas
My favorite pastry shop in Venice is where it shouldn't be.
Pasticceria dal Mas is 50 m from the train station. In the street where I'd never suggest anyone to get the wallet out of the pocket. Between a fake plastic gondola shop and in front of a "please don't call this gelato" one.
What to get there?
Follow this rule: find the lady with the dog (everyone who still lives in Venice has a dog) and look what she orders.
During Carnival time it'd be fritoe, fried balls of dough covered with sugar. You can find it empty or filled with zabajone custard. Or just a croissant or one of the many cookies and cakes you see on the window.
If the queue doesn't cross the door, you'll still have your chance.
Info
Rio Terà Lista di Spagna, 150, 30121 Venezia
Tel. +39 041 715101
Pasticceria Tonolo
More hidden, not less famous, still delicious.
Enter Pasticceria Tonolo with a word in your brain: Crema Chantilly. And don't go out without having tried it.
This place opened in 1886 in Mirano, between Padua and Venice, where still is its headquarters.
For my personal fritoe-challenge I had to try 2 here, and the one with Chantilly was second to none.
Info
Calle S. Pantalon, 3764, 30123 Venezia
Tel. +39 041 523 7209
Al Ponte delle Paste
Al ponte delle paste is a legendary Venetian pastry shop with a rich history spanning over a century. A true favorite among the locals.
The name comes from its unique spot on a bridge in Calle del Pistor. Fun fact: it used to be Venice's second bread mill, standing next to the one in Rialto.
Now, it's this well-known pastry paradise.
They whip up everything right there, fresh as can be, in their spacious kitchen every day. From delectable desserts to artisanal chocolates, and even savory treats like pizzas – they've got it all.
Oh, and you absolutely must try their stunning tiramisù – it's a game-changer.
Info
Calle del Pistor, 5991, 30122 Venezia VE
Tel. +39 041 241 0173
Canestrelli scallops at Cantina Do Spade
Cicchetti mix at All'Arco
Lunch
All'Arco
Lunch in Venice has to be fast: too many exhibitions to visit, photos to take, boats to jump in. Wait, I've said fast, not fast food.
A tramezzino and some cicchetti near Rialto is my ideal choice. If you haven't been to Venice yet, cicchetti is the name of different small bites to pair with a spritz or a glass of wine. It could include small tramezzini, baccalà mantecato, sardines in saor. It depends on where you are.
All'arco is the best place I know for cicchetti so far.
And if in winter you read the word MUSETTO on a boiling pan, order it and think about me.
Info
S. Polo, 436, 30125 Venezia
Tel. +39 041 520 5666
CoVino
Covo restaurant should be on this list, from what I've been told.
The problem is I've always found it closed for holiday/booked out so here's his little son with nothing to envy.
If Alle Testiere sounded small, compared to CoVino is Versailles.
7 tables. Stop.
For food lovers, it's a dream.
You sit in the kitchen with a view of everything you'd get to eat. Never seen anything like this in Italy, only in Japan.
For wine lovers, a dream too.
Because you'd get only natural local wines picked by Andrea.
Speaking of Andrea, he looks nuts and he probably is. But he well knows what's talking about and everything you get from the menu (don't order a la carte) is amazing.
Info
Calle del Pestrin, 3829, 30122 Venezia
Tel. +39 041 241 2705
Cantina Do Spade
A few steps from All'arco, a tiny place full of students, locals and tourists.
Always packed, don't even open the door of Cantina Do Spade without a reservation unless you're ok with eating scallops sitting in front of a canal next door.
That is exactly what I did last time.
You can also sit for a proper lunch.
And join the real squid game: don't mess up your shirt with the ink.
Info
San Polo, 859, 30125 Venezia
Tel. +39 041 521 0583
Sole with Montoro's onion and polenta at CoVino
Seabass at Osteria Alle Testiere
Dinner
Osteria Alle Testiere
A dear friend recommended Osteria Alle Testiere and he'd rather sit in one of its 22 seats than at Osteria Francescana.
I know it's not a "hidden gem", every guide and TV shows have been here, but are there still any left? And most of all, is that important?
Yeah, you have to book 3 weeks in advance, but that's true for all the good and small places, especially in Venice.
I don't tell you what to order, Luca will and you should follow his advice.
Don't even open the menu. All the food you'll get will be just wonderful.
Info
Calle del Mondo Novo, 5801, 30122 Venezia
Tel. +39 041 522 7220
Squid with polenta at Al Covo
Al Covo
Once was booked out.
Once was closed for the holiday.
Once I chose its little brother Covino.
All and all it took me a life before finally entered the green doors of Al Covo.
The restaurant doesn't need any presentation. It's in every travel guide, every blog and we even share the screen on Somebody Feed Phil episode in Venice and Modena.
The expectations were high. The results even exceed them.
You can choose to dive into the seafood or the underrated meat flavors of the lagoon.
My tip?
Engage with your waiter, attentively explore the off-menu offerings, and embrace the unknown.
As a small request, indulge me by leaving the Parma ham and Parmigiano Reggiano on the menu. Save those delights for our Parma food tour.
Info
Campiello de la Pescaria, 3968, 30122 Venezia VE
Tel. +39 041 522 3812
Hostaria Venetika
It happens that you meet a travel guide on S.Michele island, about to visit Venice cemetery with a group of Americans. Waiting for the boat they start to talk about Stanley Tucci in Emilia Romagna.
How can I not jump into the conversation?
I did.
And Vilma, that's the name of the gentle guide, without asking starts to unroll a list of her favorite restaurants in Venice.
I take notes like I never did while studying engineering, and run fast to Venetika.
The please itself is worth your visit.
Stunning.
The restoration of an old warehouse brought to light a ceiling of ancient wooden beams and vintage meets modern with style.
The name pays homage to the city's Greek roots during the Byzantine Empire, setting the stage for a menu steeped in tradition.
During my visit, I had the finest baccalà mantecato of my life, validating the timeless equation: fresh ingredients + culinary skill = pure joy.
The experience at Venetika is not only about the food.
It's a feast for the senses, a stunning synthesis of history, ambience, and gastronomic delight.
Info
Calesele, 1423, 30121 Venezia VE
Tel. +39 041 822 1502
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