Some people call it the University of Balsamic. It's a course held by the masters of Consorteria dell'Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, the only association that promotes the culture of Balsamic according to the tradition.
I studied agriculture, chemistry and tasting. I visited a barrel producer and a proper acetaia at work. I now have a handbook with all the best practices to make Balsamic.
Here are 5 things I've learnt that I hope will make you fall in love with this unique product.
1. Which is the best grape for Balsamic
One important rule I've learnt is that:
They're very sweet grapes, and sweetness is very important to give Balsamic the right density over the years. All kind of Lambrusco (red) or Sauvignon (white) can be used too.
2. Different wood, different taste
The wood-made barrels where the vinegar is stored for years have a very important role.
Chestnut, juniper, durmast, mulberry, cherry tree but also apple and pear woods can be used to make the barrels.
Each woods have specific characteristics that influence the flavours and perfumes of Balsamic.
The more kinds of different woods you use in your batch of barrels, the better.
At Consorteria I've seen a single barrel made with 10 different kinds of wood. Guess who owns that? Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana.
3. DOP or IGP Balsamic?
A DOP product must be completely produced in a limited area.
An IGP product gets its peculiar characteristics from a territory, but not all the factors that contribute to obtaining the product have to come from that area.
So DOC Balsamic is entirely made in Modena, using grapes and following a strict set of rules to determine the production process.
Also the bottle is different.
DOP Balsamic must be bottled in a glass designed by Giorgetto Giugiaro in 1988.
The front label changes according to the different producer, the back is always the same.
During our Modena food tour we taste only DOP vinegar (12 and 25 years aged). So if you love food made with quality and passion you can't be wrong.
4. How to taste Balsamic
Vittorio, my master of Balsamic, made jokes and smiled under his moustache, but my mind was asking:
Andrea, is your mouth sensitive enough to understand quality?
If they're going to give you an apple vinegar, will you recognize it?
Was a good idea to have that garlic bruschetta for dinner?
The last answer is: absolutely no.
You don't have to eat heavy foods, alcool or smoke before a tasting. So keep that tigelle and borlenghi for later, please.
About the other questions it's a matter of training and experience.
3 different parameters are used to determine the quality of Balsamic vinegar:
- Visual: density and colour
- Smell: acidity and perfume
- Flavour: balance and aromas
Almost all the senses are involved in the evaluation process that takes time and efforts.
First of all, you have to look at the Balsamic though the light of a candle (because this light is always the same everywhere), to show the real colors that should be dark brown, amber.
Then smell inside the bottle to get the perfumes that have to be refined, persistent and the acidity that should be high and balanced
Finally taste to get the intense flavors and the harmony between sweetness and acidity.
5. How to use Balsamic
Actually the opposite.
The only rule you need to know is not to warm it. Put it away from the heat. Always. It's already cooked must and you'd destroy all the flavours and perfumes that took years to be created.
If it's not dense enough it's because it's still young, maybe 12 years or even less. Then use it on a green salad: its acidity is perfect with some cheese and nuts.
If you spent 90€ for a 25 years old Tradizionale you want to get the best out of it. Then enjoy it as it is.
Take a teaspoon of Balsamic after dinner, instead of whisky. It will help your digestion and your doctor will be proud of you.
For more suggestions read here my 5 tips on how to use Balsamic.
If I ask to my friends who makes the best tagliatelle in Bologna I always get the same answer: my grandmother.
It might be true but maybe the emotions sometimes give a better taste. These are my favourite tagliatelle that you can find in Bologna's restaurants.
It happened again. This time in Modena. This time on Netflix. This time with Phil Rosenthal.
Take a look behind the scenes?
Anthony Bourdain visited Bologna and Emilia Romagna in 2012 for his show No reservations.
He won't come again but he left us a great document about the food of our land.
Vinny @ Dream Kitchen Solutions
This is one of the most informative articles I have read about Balsamic. I was never aware the fact that the quality of wood used for barrels also has an impact on quality of balsamic. All in all, great article. Thanks for sharing !
Thanks Vinny, glad you appreciate my efforts ;)