Modena Cemetery by Aldo Rossi: The incomplete city of the soul you have to visit

Modena Cemetery

You can call it Modena's Sagrada Familia. It's San Cataldo Cemetery, designed by architects Aldo Rossi and Gianni Braghieri in the 1970s, that after decades from its birth, is still incomplete.

But despite that, this abandoned city is still a masterpiece you need to visit.

The blue of the sky: a new cemetery for Modena

In 1971 the Municipality of Modena publishes a call for proposals for the extension of the San Cataldo cemetery.

Cesare Costa had designed the previous neoclassical cemetery between 1860 and 1875. The new project will rise next to it, in agricultural land.

50 designers take part in the competition to build the cemetery.
The winning project is "The blue of the sky", by architects Aldo Rossi and Gianni Braghieri.

The city of the dead: the project by Rossi and Braghieri

The idea of this project was that the things, the objects, the constructions of the dead are no different from those of the living - Aldo Rossi

The architects' idea is to create a real city of the dead.

Both the dimensions and compositional elements are traditional and recall the neoclassical cemetery of Costa.

The innovation is in the internal parts: they are inspired by the Emilian cities, like the porticoes of Bologna, the squares and the architecture of the shadows.

The city of the dead is a mix of elementary geometric shapes. Cubes, triangles and circles, like inside a De Chirico painting.

But it has also the shape of a labyrinth and a game of the goose, with the central part as the endpoint of the tour.

The prevailing color inside the structures is the gray of the plaster. In the outside instead, the use of colour is much more evident, as it highlights the different roles of the buildings.

Modena Cemetery Moma drawing Aldo Rossi

Aerial perspective drawing of Cemetery of San Cataldo, Modena by Aldo Rossi. 1971, courtesy of MoMa

The cube: the house with no windows

One of the most important and most impactful elements of the Modena Cemetery is the cubic block, the first structure encountered when entering.

It is an open-air volume, brick-coloured, perforated with simple square holes with no windows.

In the original project, it had to contain the sacrarium of those fallen in the world wars and in the partisan struggle, but it was later transformed into an ossuary.

Rossi defines it as "the house of the dead, an unfinished and abandoned house".

Like a life broken during its journey, of which only the memory remains.

Modena Cemetery Ghirri

The brick-coloured cube of Modena Cemetery in a photo by Luigi Ghirri - 1985. Courtesy of Archivio Luigi Ghirri

The cone: the church of all religions

From the cube, the central spine of the ossuaries arranged in a triangle generates an optical illusion that captures the viewer and directs him like an arrow.

The destination is the conical tower, the most symbolic element of the Cemetery.

This truncated cone-shaped building has a unique natural light coming from above.
It's a monument to the dispossessed and the common grave that houses the remains of the abandoned dead.

Inside the cone, there's a chapel called the church of all religions. Like a Pantheon without symbols, this is the place to celebrate the deceased regardless of their faith.

The cone represents an open bridge to the spirit, to the divine.

But the bad news is that this bridge is still to build.

Modena Cemetery drawing Aldo Rossi

Aldo Rossi drawing of San Cataldo Cemetery - 1982

The miss: the incomplete city of the spirit

The construction site of the Modena Cemetery began in 1976.
Over time, many construction companies, with the use of different techniques and finishing, have worked on it.

The last works date back to 2011, but at the moment only about 40% of the project has been completed.

It certainly doesn't help that locals of Modena prefer to bury their dead in the provincial cemeteries, which have had to be enlarged.

Aldo Rossi's Cemetery is not just an aesthetic masterpiece born from the vision of an architect.
It is a democratic Cemetery, where all the dead have the same dignity. There are no opulent chapels or funerary monuments, like in Certosa Cemetery in Bologna, celebrating past glories.

A minimal and geometric Sagrada Familia, a city for the spirit waiting to be lived.

Info

Cimitero di San Cataldo
Via San Cataldo, 41123 Modena
Tel. +39 059334103

Sources and references

- La lezione di Aldo Rossi, Bononia University Press 2008
- Aldo Rossi, Autobiografia scientifica, Pratiche Editrice, Milano 1999
- Fondazione Aldo Rossi
- Interview with architects Gianni Braghieri and Rossella Cadignani

Cover photo: Elena Margherita Colli


Related post

  • Modena Day Trip

    A Food Lover's Guide to Modena: A Day Trip of Endless Delights

    A day in Modena is not much time so wear your comfy ones, I'll make you walk.The good news is that Modena city centre is quite small but the things to do in a day are plenty. Check out my food itinerary to get the best from your day in Modena.

  • Alvar aalto riola bologna church outside

    Alvar Aalto's Church in Riola

    Why Alvar Aalto, one of the most important architects and designers of the XX century, would create a church in a tiny village of 300 people on the hills of Bologna?The story is long and complex. Let's start from the beginning.

  • Esprit Nouveau Le Corbusier Bologna

    Discovering Le Corbusier's Esprit Nouveau in Bologna

    The master of architecture Le Corbusier visited Italy 16 times. He made 3 projects for Italian clients that never saw the light. But if you want to feel his spirit, you can go to Bologna. From his first trip in the city when he was 20 to the Esprit Nouveau Pavilion in the Bologna Fiera district, here's the story of Le Corbusier in Bologna.


Home page icons22

Tasty newsletter

Stay in touch with monthly news and get my PDF guide with the best restaurants in Bologna, Modena and Parma


Subscribe